Lot 220XX-54 - DENIME '1954' Mother Cotton Model - Indigo

DENIME’s Lot 220XX-54 recreates a mid-50s five-pocket in the brand’s XX Series, where yarns are rebuilt from vintage analysis to bring back the cotton itself. Kurabo spins a brown-cotton blend into 7.3×7.3 selvedge denim to mirror the uneven thread shapes of early banner-era cloth, then the fabric is woven with a natural, cotton-forward grain that ages with clarity. The 1954 spec sets the tone: a balanced higher rise, a clean seat, and a wide leg with tidy lines that read classic rather than bulky. Stitch tension and seam allowances are tuned to period practice so the fabric moves and breaks in the way a true 50s jean should. The result is an XX that feels historically grounded while still easy to wear every day.

• 100% cotton selvedge construction
• Unsanforized Non-wash
• Rope-dyed with special indigo color
• Plant-based dyes for depth and unique coloration
• "Mother Cotton" (Foxfibre ®) weft
• Woven on traditional GL3 power looms, preserving distinct characteristics of uneven yarn
• Hidden proprietary DENIME rivets 
• DENIME hardware
• DENIME Leather Patch
• Hidden coin pocket selvedge
• Brown, inlaid selvedge ticker
• Made in Japan

Size	Waist	Thigh	Front Rise	Back Rise	Inseam	Leg Opening
28	31.1	12.2	11.8	15.7	33.1	8.3
29	32.3	12.4	12.0	15.9	33.1	8.5
30	33.1	12.6	12.2	16.1	33.1	8.7
31	33.9	13.0	12.6	16.5	33.1	8.9
32	34.6	13.4	12.8	16.9	33.1	9.1
33	35.4	13.6	13.0	17.3	33.1	9.3
34	36.2	14.0	13.2	17.5	33.1	9.4
36	38.6	14.6	13.4	17.9	33.1	9.6
38	40.6	15.2	13.6	18.3	33.1	9.6

A variance of +/-.5" is within tolerance. 

Shrinkage after wash (approx.):

• Waist: 2.0"–2.4"

• Thigh: 0.8"–1.2"

• Front Rise: 0.8"–1.2"

• Back Rise: 1.2"

• Inseam: 2.4"–2.8"

• Leg Opening: 0.4"–0.8"

Fit Notes: Tommy is wearing a size 33 in this denim. These have quite a similar waist to the other one wash denims of the XX model. The extra room in the legs of this fit we would consider a wide straight allows you to basically get the waist right and go from there. But keep in mind, they're unsaforized. So buy them big and shrink them down. Tommy is 5'10," 162lbs with a 33-34" waist, and his typical North American size is a 32.